Anchor and Transition clinic with Erica
June 29, 2010 § Leave a comment
Erica and I climbed at Cathedral yesterday. Erica’s goal for the day was to place lots of gear and build a variety of types of anchors. She did this on two routes Funhouse and Black Lung to Upper Refuse. We changed up the normal routes to created lots of transitions. In total we made thirteen pitches along the way and had some real fun climbing.
A simple two piece anchor using a sing with a magic x to equalize the placements.
A single point anchor using a cordellete. This anchors is doubled up then placed around the tree with a tie off to create redundancy and a common master point. Simple and quick.
Erica starting up the crux lead of the day “Black Lung”. This is a tough 5.8 pitch requiring a variety of techniques to climb through the upper bulge. Erica did awesome sending the route while placing great gear – very nice.