Rumney Maintenance

September 26, 2010 § Leave a comment

We at Mooney Mountain Guides use Rumney Rocks a lot, for both professional reasons and recreational reasons. Rumney sees a lot of wear and tear from the thousands that visit it every year. The impact on the ground (i.e. litter and erosion) is something that any popular recreation site has to contend with. What has been happening recently in Rumney is that the fixed equipment at the top of climbs is getting worn out. When climbers top rope through the fixed gear, ropes pick up dirt and over time this dirt wears away the steel in the ‘quick clips.’ Eventually a groove is formed in the stock of the quick clip, and in extreme cases the edge of that grove can become pretty sharp. Fellow MMG guide Richard has been busy replacing some of the anchors in the area. Often times it is hard work as many of the rapid links connecting the ‘quick-clips’ to the bolts have become rusted and are a challenge to loosen. Thank you for your hard efforts Richard.

On Wednesday I bumped into an old friend and treasurer of the Rumney Climber’s Association, Bob Bruemmer and he mentioned that there was going to be some trail work being done this Sunday. Additionally, I had recently seen a few sets of anchors in a state of disrepair and mentioned that I was thinking of heading out to fix a few. Knowing that our schedules were pretty busy this weekend and we couldn’t commit to spending all day in Rumney we decided to spend a couple hours, giving back to the cliff. Early Sunday morning, my wife and I headed out to some of the climbs I had identified and changed some anchors. Some had normal wear and tear, and some were just down right scary.

“The Old”
(Notice the groove formed in the bottom of the quick clip)

“The Scary”
(The quick link on the left was a single link on a rap anchor as was the split ring on the right, on a separate anchor)

“The New”
(New FIXE quick clips supplied by the RCA, thanks Bob!)

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