Hot and Steamy Day

June 11, 2011 § Leave a comment

It was hot and steamy by mid week in New Hampshire. Thursday evening we had a powerful evening storm which forced the warm tropical air out of the area. The evening storm did caused lots of damage taking down trees, power lines and closing the area schools on Friday. One thing about the weather around here it can have wild changes from day to day.
Aubrey and I went to Rumney at the height of the heat wave. We climbed routes in the shade of the forest. We do like the scrappy trad routes so we searched out a few of Rumneys trad style climbs. Cold Shoulder 5.9+ at New Wave Wall is one of these lines – often its wet. One climbs up the obvious chimney slot then turns a small roof into hand jambs and finishes up a wild strenuous layback. We took this one on as a project for the morning – cool air was venting out of the crack and there was plenty on wet hand jambs complete the challenge. Cold Shoulder was first climbed with traditional gear in 1980 by Tim Gotwols.
Our tour took us to a another area Below the New Wave. Two climbs here are moderate in grades. The steep lieback crack Son of Sammy 5.8+ and the steeper face of Couch Potato 5.9
are quick to spit one into the air if you do not have the right position.
To complete our workout we worked lines at the Main Cliff area. Two routes Scene of the Crime, Armed and Dangerous are Rumneys early climbs – put up in 1990 by Tom Bowker. Another very early route Metamorphas 5.8 was put up by Ted Hammond in 1982. All the routes were led with tradional gear and minimal bolts on the first ascents. The retro bolting has since made these lines very popular.
By days end Aubrey and I had a very good day. We challenged ourselves with numerous 5.10 routes and a few wet scrappy 5.9+.

Aubrey finding the balance on Son of Sammy.

Using varied techniques to gain ground on the flared chimney.
Aubrey after climbing Cold Shoulder 5.9+ at New Wave.
The route Scene of the Crime – Does this mean bolting was a crime?

Here is my friend Joe on the opening move of Big Easy. Joe guides in the Conway area for
Synott Mountain Guides.
Rumney is my favorite sport area. I am very fortunate to have this gem so close to my home. If a need a trad climb these days Cannon and Conway are just an hour away.
Art Mooney
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